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As far as I know it's cast aluminum and the question of lead in the enamel or in the aluminum is a matter of debate. However, if you consider when it was made...? As far as a food grade cleaner I would suggest looking up a restaurant supply on the web just to see what they offer

I removed the shadow radiator because the shadow radiator has larger water channels Which is the reason people "think" are better Imagine you have a large hose going into a small hose (the radiator to the engine) the pressure in the smaller hose increases. This can cause gaskets and Seals to prematurely wear. But the real problem is going back to the radiator. Now you have a small hose going into a large one which causes "cavitation". Essentially air in the water causing the water to foam up (a little more complicated than that, but that's a good visual) Air in the radiator reduces its effectiveness I could go on, but the bottom line is that this ends up causing a whole other set of problems I loved this bike but it's just an issue they've always had What you need to do is focus on cleaning the radiator properly and Pressure test it for leaks. MORE importantly you need to get the water channels in the engine clean and make sure the water pump is working properly. Once you do that you will see a vast improvement Watch for any gasket issues like the head gasket starting to fail. I know it sounds like a lot, but it's not that hard. Get yourself a manual and start watching videos on each step You'll be glad you did. Good luck

One more thing to spin your head, if you clean the original radiator without cleaning the water channels in the engine you end up with the same problem. Large volume coming into smaller channels and back out again.

I understand, thanks for answering it was faster than I expected, I had homework to do that, clean the radiator and all the channels under pressure, so that everything in theory is flowing well and there are no obstructions, however if it continues to heat up I would choose to adapt a shadow vt500 since my friend has one of that and it is bigger and the fan too and it works excellent for him, the engine does not heat up at all or I would opt for a vt700 like the one you put, but I would like you to tell me if in the end that Honda vt700 radiator worked well for you on your Kawasaki, did it never overheat?

I would like to keep in touch with you so you can guide me and recommend me in my restoration of my Kawasaki Ltd 454, I would appreciate it very much, I don't know if you can give me your number or email address

That's what I'm trying to tell you, the Honda radiator did not solve the problem. I bought it with that radiator and immediately replaced it with an original. Long term the Honda radiator will further damage the engine

Are you rebuilding an outboard? It's been a while to remember, let me watch them

Awesome! Let me know how it goes for you

Thanks! it's always great to hear that and to know you helped someone

Yes we do, design, manufacturing, you name it.

Let me know if you have any questions. I only had a little space and limited options where to mount the cylinders The more flexibility you have the better It will hold more weight and you can balance the pull down force you need You could also install some sort of prop that holds it down while you load it All things I couldn't do because of what I had available to me

Oh and here's the link to the detail video ruclips.net/video/ZjEHxzhtU3Q/видео.html

My starter bearing is stripped so it spins both ways

Can you put it in gear?

Yeah but it still spins

OK, I get it, I'll have to take a look at the video again and refresh my memory

Okay thank you for the help and quick response

Thanks for commenting!

What position is C3

Yes the container (sometimes called a hopper) should have a lid on it that is easily opened Fill it near to the top (or the fill mark if it has one) The salt I use is "Diamond Crystal" brand I have a well and my water is not only acidic but has iron in it which is very common So I use the "Iron Fighter" version of this salt

When I bought the bike it had the radiator from a Honda shadow (if I remember correctly) It worked terribly and was overheating on longer rides So I bought an original radiator for a 454. There were modifications they had made to flit the Honda radiator and I had to restore some things to get it back to stock One of the mounting brackets on the frame in particular The Honda radiator might have worked better if they had compensated for the thermostat and Coolant connection sizes So if you want to do something like that, those are 2 important things to check because the Coolant will get turbulance when flowing and the ability to cool will be affected Like connecting a small water hose to a bigger hose, you lose pressure and cause turbulance in the water

That's a good point, but I wasn't aware of that. That's the exact reason why I recommend using OEM parts. NOT a matter of honesty!

Your right that is a problem. So I have a suggestion that might work for you. I ended up moving mine next to the entrance door. That way the space in front isn't wasted and you have to keep the rack closed Motivates me to keep it organized 🙂

@@mreinsmith great idea. That solves it! Thanks !

Thanks

It's ironic, I hadn't played since last year, so last week I reset my progress and started over. I'm almost there again so I'll let you know

Good point, I still have the docs so let me find it, Thanks!

What tractor do you have? There are some that have known issues with the mounts on the frame, one example is some of the John Deere L series Tractors

White screen is almost ALWAYS caused by a poor connection. These cables can easily be defective right out of the package. If you can return it and get another that is what I would try first. While you wait for a new cable, check for problems with the connectors on the camera. Make sure they are clean and the plastic isn't warped. If it's warped it won't pinch tight enough Look for brown or black burn marks anywhere you can see soldered connections or chips and diodes. Let me know how you get along

@@mreinsmith thank You For Quick Respond, I Already ordered 2 Flex Cable For My SR45 And It will Arrive This day.

@@mreinsmith My 2 Flex Already Came And I Already Try The 2 But The Screen Is Still white, i Inspect The Connectors But Couldn't See Warp, what Could Be The problem?

I'm sorry to hear that Are there any other small ribbons or wires in the camera that could be loose? Otherwise the only 2 things left are the screen itself or a burnt out component If you had another similar camera you could temporarily connect the screen from it It's a risk though, It's all low voltage but it "could" burn out the other screen

Let me look at the uncut video and see if I can answer your question

One thing in the meantime, the Shaft is a taper fit, look up the torque spec and make sure you have it torqued correctly

Thanks a mil for responding will give this a try in morning as Didnt torque it.​@mreinsmith

I looked at a cut part and the slot for the woodruff key is cut into the taper of the shaft, so as long as it was tightened enough (even if it wasn't fully torqued) it shouldn't be spinning on the shaft

A bit difficult to explain but will try... The Rotor isn't spinning on shaft as the woodruff key is in place. The problem on mine seems to be that the Rotor seems to have been made In Factory in 2 separate pieces the part that slides over that with woodruff key and then the rest of it. My question is should the Rotor function as one part that locks in place. Or is the centre of the Rotor able to move independently of the Rotor or has mine broken loose?

Yes indeed, it's about 6x6 today. Watch out for the darn deer of course. They "say" deer don't like azaleas, but trust me, they do

Oh my wife said to definitely use the "growth hormone" they make. We can't remember exactly what they call it

One more thing, be conservative at first with the hormone, fertilizer, water, or whatever you use. You can always add some if it's not going well, I hope you can save it!

Ironically I remember thinking, what the heck do I say about this!? I guess I overcompensated 😁 Ok, so if you want a laugh check this video we did, I think you'll appreciate what makes this one funny ruclips.net/video/TL8uE5jdXxc/видео.html

@@mreinsmith I disagree it's a 6 minute video if it was close to 10 we'd have a problem and you kept me from making minor mistakes like the order of the batterie coming out which is useful never stop over explaining because if someone complains about it then they weren't fully listening. no offense to this dude above obv its a video about batteries you dont need to pay that much attention i guess, but it's helpful for the people who do.

@@danieltaylor5364thanks for the comment I try not to assume someone knows what I mean if I use a term or something. It's a balance though

So start by finding the parts diagram for the drill and see if you can determine what the screw screws into See if it's something you can get to by taking it apart and if that would actually make it easier My thought is that once you get it apart there might be something that it goes through that once you get it off, the screw will be sticking out enough to grab on to it Did I explain that OK? Aways hard to do in a couple of paragraphs Let me know if that works in case we need to try something else

So what would help, I might still have the sound, or would music be better? I probably took it out because music was playing in the background and that causes a copyright violation But I don't care about monetization anymore So let me know

Awesome! Glad it helped!

It makes me wonder if one of the contacts is loose or broken on the inside, on most devices the contact is soldered. But that doesn't mean it would be fixable